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Thanks man! I’m working on some plans for cabinets as we speak haha.

@@WoodNerds oh wow,I didn’t think you would actually make one, now I’m def subscribing to get the video when it’s out!

Haha I appreciate that!

Thanks for watching!

Dude! Guillermo! Thanks, man! I appreciate it! Cheers!

Luckyyyyy!

Thank you! I appreciate that! Thanks for watching!

Hey! I’m just using the standard construction grade blade that comes with the saw but that is typically true. More teeth means smaller teeth though and that makes it harder to cut. As long as you’re steady, it won’t matter too much in my experience. You’ll have to sand the tool marks off the edges either way and with mdf that isn’t too hard of a task. If you plan to do this, maybe make a test cut with the saw and blade you have, to see if the results are acceptable to you. I find that the best when it comes to making decisions.

@@WoodNerds thanks for info !!

Of course! Happy to help!

Hey! Like for a deck? I believe they are supposed to be a fixed space of 16 or 12 inches on center. You’ll have to figure out how many you need by taking the length of the deck in inches and divide by 12 or 16 to determine. If any leftover number like 12-3/4 you’ll just have to have a shorter space on that last one or divide it between the first and last space evenly. I hope that helps!

Lesleigh! Thank you so much! I really appreciate it! Cheers! 🍻

Haha! Still looks good! I’ll save it in case I need to replace one of my other doors I guess!

Any will do. The higher the tooth count the finer the cut. I used a Freud glue line rip blade and it’s been great! Linked in the description.

For this method I think 1/4 inch would be fine. The thicker you go, the heavier the door will be but 1/4 inch isn’t a crazy jump.

Hey! The owners manual recommends a certain humidity and environmental temperature to operate in. I honestly don’t have a lot of experience with the impact on the laser. It would be a safe bet to follow those guidelines in my opinion.

Hey! I use sketchup. I believe there is a free version but I use the paid version.

😂 there are such mixed reviews of the Creality machines. Mine have been good but I wonder what I’m missing out there.

Great points! Thank you for the kind words!

😂😂 it’s a relevant scale considering the application of printing off tools in the U.S. as for recording measurements for the actual modeling jobs I think mm makes much more since due to the accuracy. Funny comment though haha.

Its a thing, these wood guys inch!

😂😂 thanks man!! Math sucks, the easiest way is best in my opinion!

I’m glad! Thanks for watching man! Cheers!

I really appreciate that! Thanks for taking time to respond!

Hey! No, not really. Plywood in my opinion feels a little more substantial but either should perform the same. I’d probably go with what is more affordable and/or more readily available. You really should sand the plywood before use and can likely get away with using the mdf without that step so it might be a little less work.

Hey man! I have the exact blades listed in the description.

That’s a great idea! Could be an extra work surface or even a cart to move things around the shop with.

@@WoodNerds Exactly, I just built one for my Ridgid planer, fits under bench and works great!

That’s awesome! I might redo my shop but after that is complete, I’ll have to keep this in mind in case it helps solve any problems I encounter with storage/space.

That’s awesome! It’s a neat problem solving technology. I love that once you have the file you can print unlimited copies in case you beat them up when you use the jig.

Thank you! Great question! I’ve been using sketchup to draft my woodworking projects for a while now. You can also use that to produce 3D models for printing. There are a bunch of great tutorials online. I learned how to use it in an afternoon, granted I wasn’t making spaceships with it, but able to make basic items pretty fast and easy.

😂😂😂

Lucky! I've printed so many things for my wife and tools, but she still thinks it's a waste and mine cost me $120 used LOL

@@chazd6874 some people can't be pleased. 🤔

Mine is mdf, might be listed as 3mm sheet. I have some hardboard as well and while I haven’t used it for the panel before, I don’t think it would cause any issues to use that instead. I say this without experience using that material for that purpose of course so take that with a grain of salt.

Thank you Lynn, Of course! It’s “clary sage” satin finish, using a “cabinet and furniture paint” base to help mitigate wear and tear. my wife picked it up at Lowe’s. I think the color manufacturer is sherwin Williams!

I’ve thought about this as well! Get a company to design some injection molds and pay Pennie’s per item. You’re thinking from the right angle!

lol dramatic? I doubt it’s the worst to recommend haha. I haven’t had any issues with mine but also don’t have any experience with the Bambu machines. From the specs the P1S is slightly larger than the K1 and similar everywhere else except it has a camera but $300 more expensive. I’m not saying it’s not worth $300 more but any tool that costs that much more than the other in my experience better be worth the price jump. Again, not defending one over the other, I only have my experience to provide.

@@WoodNerds if you value your designs , want to sell them, and don't want them stolen immediately don't buy a bambu. They run all your data through a cloud system in china before your job even begins.

Hey! I haven’t fully investigated any major mods yet. Do you have any recommendations?

@@WoodNerds I posted a link above. This team has all kinds of mods from bed fans to linear gantrys. It has helped my K1 a lot. You can look under projects mods to checkout what they have done and working on.

Great insight! I’ve noticed minor flaws but haven’t really had any serious issues. I have about 80 hours of print time on each machine so I wonder if I’ll see some ugliness as time goes on and they loosen up. It’s all new to me but so far so good. Do you have other recommendations for printers that fellow designers could benefit from? Always on the lookout for the best option for the money.

@@WoodNerds the new qidi q1 pro printer are fairly reasonable machines, active chamber heating, respectable build volume, respectable price and seem great thus far. The Bambu lab machines I recommend. I have a total of 4 printers and the best experience of them all has been the p1s. The k1 don’t really have much value in them anymore they are just featureless printers from what I can see. I would avoid twotrees kingroon flash forge etc they are all just clone machines trying to imitate Bambu lab but always having tradeoffs that make it annoying

Thank you for the info. I’ll have to checkout the others from your list. Of course I only have my experience to draw conclusions from but so far the K1’s have been good to me. My dad had a bamboo and loves it, so does a friend of mine. Might have to send out some emails and kiss butts to get some freebies to try out haha.I appreciate the convo!

@@WoodNerds glad to be able to help, its nice to have someone listen every once in a while. the 3d printer market can be a very sneaky and misleading place, bad marketing terms etc etc. the bambu lab printers seem to be the best printer you can get if you just want it to work and to use it as a tool. my p1s has been going strong for 10 months now and it prints perfectly 90% of the time. the 10% being user error only. the k1 machines are great dont get me wrong, but their pricepoint is too high and feature list is lacking really. after using an ender 3 for 3 years, and a custom built rook 3d printer for a few months, the p1s is the best printer ive ever used period. great quality, great speed, great reliability. checks all my boxes. its a tool, not a hobbyist machine. thats the way i like to look at it :)

⁠@@WoodNerdsI also have Bambu lab printers, I have a p1s and an A1, both are amazing and in my opinion the best on the market right now, work with what you have because the k1 is still a good printer but if you ever decide to change them definitely go for Bambu lab, not only the printers are really good but the slicer is the best of all in my opinion

I haven’t fully explored all the stuff available out there yet. Been trying to get my skills up to model better. Have you been designing your own prints or mainly benefiting from the free libraries so far?

@@WoodNerds free libraries. Need to put to use my hobby fusion 360 license sooner than later... even bought a really precise digital caliper the other month as I wanted to be able to start taking precise measurements but have put off designing something. Basically we're on opposite paths 😂

@DIYAroundTheHome 😂😂 it’s time consuming man! Took me like 2 weeks to design and test until I got that final iteration. Not a bad turnaround if I had a marketable product though. Now I just need to start writing everything down that makes me think “this is stupid, it should be like….”

Thank you! Cool word!

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching and taking time to reach out! Cheers man!

Yikes! You can open the back and see if anything got caught up in the motors. If one of those clay packets burst during shipping that might cause some weird symptoms but you might want to reach out to xtool and see what they have to say about that. Mine is quiet.

@@WoodNerds human error. I didn't remove the 2nd screw clips UNDER x - axis bar like a 🤡. All good now.

@nerdkink haha oops! Glad to hear it was an easy fix!

I’m a failure! Lol. I just added them to the description! Not bad. Might end up going with some magswitch if they have a good sale in the future.

@@WoodNerds Thanks. Great video

I appreciate it! Thanks for watching!

Of course!

There’s a third party add on “damn simulator” for that.

Of course, I should have known.

@rp9674 😂😂

No worries! Slamatron saw the video and offered me a sponsorship right away! Screw slam simulator!

Hi! Sorry to say, I didn’t end up making plans for this build.

You can use plywood but you’ll have to use edge banding or a good filler to hide the ply’s before paint. With mdf all it needs is a light sanding to remove the tool marks and it’s ready to paint.